Creating memories for a lifetime, from a packed train ride to a dodgy guest house.
Arriving in India: The First Impressions
Arriving in India for the first time can feel both overwhelming and exciting at the same time. Especially as you’ll most likely be arriving in one of the big cities, Delhi or Mumbai.
For me two days in either of these cities is more than enough, getting on a train or a bus to the next destination, whether it be beaches, deserts, mountains or forests is when the adventure begins.
Early Morning in Delhi’s PaharGanj
The taxi driver dropped me off in Delhi’s PaharGanj at 4am, where all the budget hostels and hotels were situated. Any other time of the day this area would be organised chaos, with market stalls, people, animals and traffic. But now only the odd stray dog, and sleeping cows. I had nothing booked, I was just winging it. After I’d paid the driver, and he drove off I was all alone, and feeling a little bit vulnerable. The whole place looked rundown, and something I wasn’t used to, I was well and truly out of my comfort zone.
Finding a Place to Stay
I went into the first hostel I could see. The staff were all sleeping on the floor of the reception area. I was welcomed in by a boy who was still half asleep, he checked me in and showed me to my room. This was as basic and as low budget as you could get. Three hundred rupees, around six pounds per night was the going rate for low end hostels. When you’re away for a long time you have to rough it sometimes.
Reflecting on My Arrival
I put my bags in my room and went up to the roof where there were a few benches to sit while I had a smoke and a drop of whiskey that I’d bought from the airport. I sat and gathered my thoughts. I gave a satisfying sigh as I thought I’d made it here with no troubles. Tomorrow I would book my onward journey North, I had nowhere in particular in mind. This was the beauty of travelling with no plan or itinerary, you don’t necessarily need one when you’re away for four or five months.
Exploring Delhi by Day
I had a broken sleep over the next four or five hours before I got up at 9am. I was pretty hungry and was keen to have my first experience of India by day. The streets of PaharGanj felt like a completely different place from the streets from a few hours before. Busy and noisy. The humidity was off the scale from what I was used to.
I went to one of the many cafes and restaurants that lined the streets. A biryani with a chai, only 100 rupees, around 2 pounds. Wow, how nice that was. This was one of the things I was most excited about being in India, authentic Indian cooking. Trying food that I hadn’t tried in England before.
Meeting Mr. Goona Junior
Goona’s Travel was the first kiosk that I stumbled upon when I left the Cafe. Mr Goona Junior told me about his father’s houseboat on Dal Lake, in Srinagar. A 27-hour bus journey away, way up in Kashmir. He told me about royalty and rock stars that had stayed there before. Looking at the pictures I could see why it was fit for royals and rock stars. It looked beautiful, and the lake looked even more so. And the price for 3 nights including a waiter and all my food, and return by bus, wasn’t bad at all. Three thousand rupees, around 60 pounds, I thought was very reasonable. I was sold straight away, I paid Mr Goona Junior, and he told me that the bus was leaving tonight at 8pm, and Mr Goona Senior would meet me at the other side.
Wandering the Streets of Delhi
I left with a smile and my tickets back into the hustle and bustle of the Bazaar. I wandered the streets taking in all the sights and smells of fresh spices, incense and sewers. Walking the streets of Delhi engaged all the senses, I was overwhelmed with it all, excited and completely culture shocked.
After twenty minutes of walking the dusty, humid streets, I was ready for some space and refreshments, away from the chaos. I found a rooftop restaurant in one of the squares. Three flights up it felt like a different world from the crazy streets below.
I sat in the comfort of cushions and cold beer as I talked to other travellers, telling tails of their epic adventures around India. Ageing Hippies that had been coming to India since the 60’s & 70’s, talked about their journeys following the Hippy trail across Europe & Asia. I was fascinated and I felt like I’d somehow missed out on something special.
Preparing for the Journey North
I spent the day at the restaurant, having lunch and dinner, before I had to get ready for my bus for my onward journey north. I said my farewells to my new friends and off I went to the bus station, stopping at the hotel on the way to get my belongings.
The taxi dropped me off at the bus station with half an hour to spare. There was plenty of activity and noise as expected, as I looked for my bus. I found it at the far end of the terminal, I found a space on the floor, I threw my bags down and sat among them until it was time to board.
Boarding the Bus to Srinagar
I wondered about the bus that was going to be my home for the next day or so. It was far from luxury, actually bordering on being a bit of a nail. This bus was going to take me up through the wilds of the Himalayas, so I had to have every bit of faith in it.
When it was time to board, I found my seat by the window and got myself as comfortable as possible.
Leaving Delhi Behind
We chugged out of the terminal half an hour after schedule, and through the busy streets of Delhi. Staring out of the window at people as they went about their everyday lives was mesmerising, there was something different to see every second. Delhi was just a massive urban sprawl of activity and chaos. I was fascinated by it all, and sometimes a little sad, as poverty was everywhere.
Delhi seemed to be never ending, we’d been driving for well over an hour before we eventually reached the highway. The countryside around Delhi was pretty nondescript, a flat dusty landscape littered with buildings, and things.
I was exhausted so I was fast asleep within a couple of hours of being on the bus. Uncomfortable as it was, I still managed around five hours of sleep in ten hours.
Entering the Mountains
The scenery outside the next morning was very different from the scenery from last night. The flat landscape had turned into mountains, and the highway was now a dodgy looking road that snaked around the mountains, with deep canyons below. The road was just as busy as the highway, as well as being more precarious. I feared for my life as the bus overtook slower vehicles on bends, using only its horn to warn oncoming traffic. One slip of concentration from the driver then we’d be joining the other wrecks at the bottom of the canyon.
Breakfast in the Mountains
When we eventually stopped for breakfast at a layby, I was so stiff from just being in one place for hours that I nearly fell over. We did stop a few times throughout the night but I was far too tired to leave the bus.
I bought myself an omelette and a masala chai, and sat on a stump and observed the stunning view of the mountains. It wasn’t very clear as there was low cloud, or should I say very high ground, but stunning nonetheless.
We hung around for half an hour before getting back on the bus and back on the road.
Entering the Disputed Region of Kashmir
As we got deeper into the mountains, the roads seemed to become more narrow and pretty scary. The Indian Army was everywhere now, as we were now well into the disputed region of Kashmir, with the Pakistani Army on the other side.
It felt very hostile, and admittedly I became a little anxious. And I now realised that this 27 hour bus journey was going to be a lot more than that, as the day slipped into night, and we’d been on the bus for nearly that amount of time already.
Arriving in Srinagar
The next morning I thought we surely can’t be too far now. I was told at least another five hours.
The Indian military was evermore present now that we were deeper into Kashmir. The mountains were bigger, the roads more treacherous, and the air a lot cooler.
A Dangerous Journey
When a rock smashed through the window after a mini landslide, hitting a passenger on the side of the head. I soon realised how dangerous this journey was. The man was unconscious, and there was a lot of blood. The other passengers knew what to do, as the bus kept going. Grabbing his feet to hang him upside down, I’m guessing to get more blood to his head. It worked and the man came around. The bus stopped at the next village for the man to get some medical help, and off we went again.
First Impressions of Srinagar
When we finally arrived in Srinagar, some forty five hours after leaving Delhi. The remnants of war were apparent. Burnt out buildings and vehicles were scattered about the main high street into the city. It had a very unwelcoming feel to it.
A Warm Welcome from Mr. Goona
Mr Goona senior and his driver were waiting for me at the bus stop as promised. As I was the only Westerner on the bus it was very easy for him to know who I was.
He was a very welcoming man, and very excited to have me here. I got my bags together and off we went up the dusty road in his Jeep.
Discovering Dal Lake
We drove for around ten minutes to the edge of Dal Lake, where a small rowing boat was waiting for us to take us across the Lake. Dal Lake was a stark contrast from the ugly city we had just left. The silver water glistening in the afternoon sun, surrounded by the majestic Himalayan Mountains. It was a magical place that felt like a million miles away from Srinegar.
Wooden houseboats lined the edge of the massive lake, mostly all for accommodation. We climbed aboard the rowing boat, and rowed across the lake to Mr Goona’s houseboat. Lillis and wildlife were abundant. A nature lover’s paradise. The only noises coming from birds, frogs, and the gentle splashing from the ores. Absolutely wonderful, and well worth the long, treacherous bus ride.
Staying on Mr. Goona’s Houseboat
We arrived at Mr Goona’s houseboat and climbed aboard. Mrs Goona, and Joseph, who was the boat hand, and waiter, gave us a helping hand onto the boat. It was pretty impressive, nothing that I’d seen before. Inside had a living room that was panelled out with dark wood, a comfy settees, a bathroom, a kitchen area, three separate bedrooms, and wooden benches outside on the decking. Everything you need for a few days of comfort.
The Trekking Proposal
Mr Goona sat me down with a chai, and Joseph came along with a huge book. I was curious. Mr Goona opened the book, to show photos of people camping and trekking. He tried to sell me a three day trek, by pony and a guide through the Himalayas, camping, and cooking over open fires. It sounded great, but not this trip. It went from two thousand rupees to five hundred within five minutes. In the end we both agreed that I wasn’t interested.
A Magical Sunset
Watching the sunset on the decking was magical, the sky had turned red, and reflected on the lake, with the huge peaks as a backdrop. I felt like I was in a dream, it really was special.
Reflecting on My Time at Dal Lake
The three days I’d spent on Dal Lake was an amazing experience, spending days reading on the deck, and observing the wildlife that lived around the lake. It was so peaceful and tranquil, with no interactions from the outside world, only the odd rowing boat that went by. It was time to get back on the road for my journey south, first to Rajasthan, and then to Goa. I really didn’t fancy forty odd hours on a bus again, so I would get a taxi to Jammu in the south of Kashmir, and from there I would get a sleeper train to Delhi, then onto Ajmer in Rajasthan. The taxi would take around nine hours, if all went well, although in India, anything could happen.
The Taxi Ride to Jammu
Mr Goona took me to the main square in Srinagar, and we found a waiting taxi. I said farewell to Mr Goona and waited in the cab. It could hold 6 passengers, so the driver, understandably, wanted to have as many passengers as possible to make the trip worthwhile.
Another five passengers came one by one within the next hour. Including an American called Luke, who was also hoping to get to Jammu for the train to Delhi.
Facing Delays on the Road
The train didn’t leave Jammu until 9pm, so we had 13 hours to get there. Plenty of time I thought, but I didn’t want to get too complacent as I knew what these mountain roads were like.
The journey was fine for the first few hours, until we came to a halt. We weren’t sure what the problem was, although the driver was certain that there had been a landslide, blocking the road ahead, which was actually confirmed to be the case. We were stationary for over 2 hours before the road had cleared and we were slowly on our way again. Any more delays and we were sure to miss our connecting train. Worst case scenario I find a hotel for the night and get the train the next day. Although according to my guidebook, Jammu was not a place you really want to hang about.
Racing Against Time
The traffic was pretty heavy, and nothing was moving very quickly, although you don’t want to be speeding through these roads. A few more minor traffic jams on the way, we were now up against it. 2 more hours to Jammu, and the train was leaving in 2 and a half.
Missing the Train
Arriving in Jammu at 10 minutes to 9, the driver would drop myself and Luke straight to the train station, battling through the busy streets of Jammu, it was no easy task. The driver did his best but unfortunately the train had just left by the time we got there. Apparently trains always leave late in India, not this time though, it left bang on the dot.
The Nightmare Stay in Jammu
We thanked the driver for his effort and went to get tickets for the next train. Which is 9pm tomorrow. And the guidebook was pretty accurate, Jammu is not somewhere you would want to hang around in, there’s nothing to see or do. It was just somewhere to go to get a train out of there.
Luke and I went to find a room for the night. I wasn’t sure what we were going to do for the next 24 hours, but I wasn’t too perturbed, you just have to get on with it, it’s all part of the joys of travel.
Discovering a Less-Than-Glamorous Hotel
We found a budget hotel in the high street, not too far from the station. I knew it was going to be far from glamorous, but it’s a bed after all. And far from glamorous it was, in fact worse than that. The porter showed us the door for the room, and disappeared before we opened it. We soon found out why he quickly disappeared. The room was the pits, the hotel was a dump, but the room was the pits. Four single beds in a massive room, the sink was hanging off the wall, damp patches everywhere, paper peeling off the ceiling and walls, the carpet was threadbare, stained curtains, tape covering cracks on the window. If we thought that was bad enough, what we noticed next shocked us, and made everything else bearable. One of the beds had collapsed on one corner, and the wall by the collapsed corner of the bed had what appeared to be a red splatter that had tried to be hurriedly cleaned. It looked like someone had been hit over the head while sleeping, collapsing the bed. We both looked at each other and thought exactly the same thing. This was a scene from a horror movie.
Surviving the Night
It was getting late, we were tired, so we decided to stay the night. Although we were tempted to go and find somewhere else.
We bought some beers from a restaurant next door, and played cards until the early hours. I had a broken sleep, albeit surviving the night, before waking fully just after 10am.
Killing Time in Jammu
As our train wasn’t until 9pm, we paid for another night just so we could have the room for the day.
There really wasn’t much to see or do in Jammu so the day dragged on. I couldn’t wait to get on the train and get out of Dodge.
Boarding the Train to Delhi
We went to buy our tickets, but could only get third class, which was fine by me as I heard third class was okay. We would arrive in Delhi at 8am, and then I would arrive in Ajmer around lunchtime.
We got to the train station in plenty of time, we really didn’t want to miss this train, another night and day in Jammu didn’t bear thinking about.
The Nightmare Train Journey
We boarded the train and instantly thought the worst was over, unbeknown to me at that time things were going to get a hell of a lot worse.
We found a bench on the third class carriage, and put our bags in the holdall above.
Very basic but I don’t expect anything more, this was going to be an okay journey I thought.
A Grueling Experience in Third Class
The carriage was comfortably full as we left the station half an hour late. I was relaxed and relieved as we left Jammu behind. But that was short lived as we stopped at the next station and double the amount of people that were already in the carriage got on, and nobody got off. This was starting to feel really uncomfortable. Surely this was now at full capacity.
The Overcrowding Nightmare
Twenty minutes down the line we stopped at the next station, and there were a lot of people waiting at the platform, most of those people boarded our carriage, and yet again nobody got off. This was too much for me to handle, as there were people literally in every available space. Lying down behind us on the bench, laying down under our feet, crammed into the holdall above our heads. My nose was an inch away from the woman’s nose that was sitting opposite me. Luke lost it, but managed to climb up onto the holdall above, just so he could stretch his legs out a bit. I don’t know how I was going to get through the next twelve hours or so.
A guy who was sitting in the holdall above my head, offered myself and Luke some rum. We didn’t hesitate, as we needed something to help us get us through the night. He shared it generously, until he eventually fell asleep, and then began dribbling onto my head. I couldn’t even move out of the way to avoid it, this was too much. I woke him up, he apologised and turned over.
Navigating the Chaos
I did eventually fall asleep, but not for very long, as I needed the toilet. The thought of it made me shudder. Luckily it was just across the way, but trying to get to it without standing on someone’s head or feet was another problem, especially on a moving train, not to mention the rum I had consumed. Although it gave me the courage to try and get to the toilet. I woke everyone up that was in my path, but when it’s body to body on the floor what else could I do? I reached the toilet, and to my horror there were also people sleeping in there, around four people in a small space, surrounding the hole in the floor which was the toilet. They woke up, and quickly shuffled out of the way when I stood over them. This was awkward, it was hard enough trying to stand up when the train was moving, let alone aiming for the hole without it going everywhere, this was someone’s bed after all.
The rest of the journey went without any dramas, although it was an absolutely awful experience that I would hope to never have to go through again. I would never get used to trying to sleep in such conditions. It was brutal to say the least.
Reflecting on the Journey
As the sun began to rise, and we approached Delhi, a sense of relief went through my body, as I knew this nightmare journey would soon be over. I would be staying on the train for a few more hours, but most of the passengers would be getting off, and the rest of the journey would be a hell of a lot easier.
When we finally stopped at Delhi station, and everyone in our carriage fought to get off, I was expecting a few people to stay on, but to my delight the whole carriage emptied, and nobody else boarded, so I had the carriage to myself. I said my farewells to Luke, and sat back with a massive sigh, and a huge smile on my face. A guy came on selling chai, just what I needed, and then a lady came on selling samosas, perfect.
We waited for around ten minutes and still no passengers got on board. When we pulled off, I climbed into one of the holdalls, used my bag as a pillow and had an amazing, peaceful journey to Ajmer. When the trains are like this, then for me it’s the best way to travel around India. From now on I will use trains whenever I can. Last night’s experience didn’t put me off, and the bus journey to Srinegar didn’t either. If anything it’s toughened me up a little, everything else now would be better planned, and a lot easier. Anything that India was going to throw at me I would be able to deal with. I’m absolutely certain that most people would have given up on India after that experience, and got on the next plane out of Delhi.
Conclusion: The Joys and Challenges of Travel
For me it was a learning experience, and the rest of my time in India was amazing, and I ended up going back to India seven more times. It also gave me the desire to set up a travel business with my partner, specialising In India, and the far East, to help plan people’s travels around India, and Asia. Going to India for the first time, especially as a solo traveller without a plan can be daunting, as it was for me. With our knowledge and experience, and our fantastic suppliers in India, we can plan and help to make your trip to India stress free, giving you more time to discover this wonderful country.
The story above is an example of why you should trust the planning and booking of your trips to a Travel Expert. Samantha Green at Not Just Travel is a Personal Travel Consultant who will help to plan an amazing adventure in one of the most beautiful countries in the world (without the drama!). Click the button below to send a message for a chat about a holiday in India.
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